I first smelled Moschino a couple of years after its 1987 launch and promptly fell in love. It was everything I loved in perfume (and, truthfully, still love): a big spicy oriental with a little green edge and a sweet dry-down. A lifetime and a scary perfume collection later, and I still think it's fabulous.
Moschino opens and ends on an opulent tone. The beginning is sunset-colored and shifts from ripe plums to delicate bitterness. Tagetes, a note I loved long before I recognized it, are making things both warm and sharp with that dry and sunny quality of the flower. It took me years after I stopped wearing Calvin Klein's Obsession to realize that marigolds were one of the biggest attraction this perfume held for me. Moschino is more interesting and definitely superior to the current watered-down version of obsession.
Moschino's heart is more spicy than floral on my skin. From the note list one would think it's all gardens and femininity, but I actually think Moschino, on its supposed rose, gardenia and co. would wear beautifully on a man who enjoys big 80s-style perfumes. There's nothing dainty or pink about it, and the transition from spice cake to a thick and ambery dry-down is smoother and darker than Obsession (both masculine and feminine) ever was. Those who found Calvin Klein's iconic bomb too disgusting for words would probably not see Moschino as a major improvement, but if you wished for something a little more complex that will not get people standing behind you in line to say knowingly "Obsession, right?", this is worth a try (as long as you can deal with its tenacity).
Moschino in EDT concentration is still in production (always check the company's official website for this information). While I haven't seen it on a department store counter in many years, it can be found online for scary low prices.
Notes (from Moschino website):
marigold, freesia, honeysuckle, plum, galbanum
gardenia, rose, ylang-ylang, carnation, nutmeg, pepper
sandalwood, patchouli, amber, musk, vanilla
Top image is a 1980s Moschino fashion ad from lifeinitaly.com. And just for fun, the handbag below, a vintage Moschino is currently up on eBay: