Showing posts with label Ayala Moriel Parfums. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ayala Moriel Parfums. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 14, 2014

Ayala Moriel- Musk Malabi & Sandal Ale


The two new perfumes from Ayala Moriel, Musk Malabi and Sandal Ale, offer somewhat unusual pairings of gourmand elements with classic perfumery notes. Like all Ayala Moriel perfumes, these are all natural fragrances and you can tell- they smell alive once you put them on skin. Both have an impressive longevity even when applied sparingly from a sample, and very low sillage.

Sandal Ale is a weird one. The first minute or two are disorienting: booze and wood polish, but no perfume as we know it. But it's the tension between raw wood, apricots preserved in cognac, and old-fashioned ginger ale that captures your attention and causes the age-old wrist-to-nose compulsion. It's fascinating to follow the development and catch the exact moment when Santal Ale moves from weird to delicious.
Notes: Amyris, Elderflower , Green Cognac , Marigold, Australian Sandalwood

Musk Malabi is a treat for musk-heads. Inspired by a Middle Eastern dessert, a pudding flavored with rosewater syrup, this is a dirty vegetal musk enveloped in neroli and lots of sweet red rose. If you think of the rosy facet in MKK and amplify it considerably while replacing the civet with the muskiest musk, you'll have an idea of the charm woven into this Musk Malabi. I want to bathe in this stuff. Or eat it.
Notes: Atlas Cedarwood, Bitter Orange, Blood Orange Cardamom, Coriander, Musk Notes Myrrh, Neroli (Tunisia), Orange Blossom Absolute Rose Absolute (Bulgaria), Rose Absolute (Turkey).

Santal Ale and Musk Malabi are available from ayalamoriel.com, where you can purchase samples and bottles in various sizes (a 4ml mini EDP of either is $48). Samples for this review were sent by the perfumer.

Photo by Dario Robleto.

Tuesday, October 02, 2012

Ayala Moriel Parfums- Treazon


All of a sudden there's a new fragrance at the top of my wishlist: Treazon by Ayala Moriel. Perfumer Ayala Sender unknowingly created something I've been dreaming about for a while: a spicy vanilla tuberose perfume that has some serious funk in there but is still breathtakingly beautiful.

Treazon is a natural perfume and the bitter medicinal opening definitely asserts it. I like this non-perfumy opening and it has some of that medicinal quality of Tubereuse Criminelle-- a little green, a little poisonous- it grabs your attention immediately. I smell spices: more anise than cinnamon, and they offer a very warm contrast to the bitter green and camphor  that preceded them. This is where my nose gets glued to my skin. I want to catch every whiff and nuance and pay attention to that moment when the tuberose that's been lurking starts to unfold and bloom.

Ayala Moriels's tuberose is a true femme fatale. She teases and tempts, all the while you know she's nothing but danger. Tuberose has that effect when at its best (hello, Fracas!), and this is some great stuff. But what I love most here is the even more narcotic vanilla in the dry-down. It's infused with all the spice and nectar that run through the veins of Treazon, and has a distinct dark and almost animalic character that make the fragrance wonderfully sexy and addictive. Ayala doesn't list any of the usual suspects that tend to create this effect, so it's either all in my head, my skin or (most likely) in the exquisite raw materials and expert execution.

I've been dabbing the most minute amounts of perfume to my skin so I can stretch the sample. Even the tiniest drop has an impressive longevity of several hours; even though it's hard to gauge sillage this way I'd say your nearest and dearest will be able to smell you just fine with even modest application.

Notes: Anise Seed, Benzoin Siamese, Birch Cassis, Cinnamon, Massoia Bark, Orris Root, Tuberose Absolute, Vanilla Absolute.

Treazon by Ayala Moriel Parfums  will be released any day now. Samples are already available from ayalamoriel.com ($17 for 1 ml). The sample for this review was provided by the perfumer.

Image: a 1930 Burberry hat and trench coat by  Hulton-Deutsch Collection/CORBIS.

Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Arquiste L'Etrog and Etrog by Ayala Moriel Parfums

"And you shall take on the first day the fruit of beautiful trees, branches of palm trees and boughs of leafy trees and willows of the brook, and you shall rejoice before the Lord your God seven days." (Leviticus 23:40)
The Jewish High Holidays are approaching (mid September this year) so it's a good time to discuss two interesting perfumes that were inspired by the holiday of Sukkot, which is also the celebration of the harvest. Etrog is the Hebrew name for yellow citron (Citrus Medica), the "fruit of beautiful trees" in Jewish tradition, and is used during the holiday. The Etrog is presented and blessed alongside branches of palm trees, willow and myrtle. This is the background story of L'Etrog from Arquiste and Etrog by Ayala Moriel Parfums.

Arquiste's L'Etrog is a a light and airy citrus cologne. It's very bright, a bit soapy and well composed. There's no sharpness in L'Etrog and it smells preppy and pedigreed. It smells expensive and has nothing in common with cheap department stores citrus perfumes. It's probably one of the loveliest smells you could find and I want nothing more than a full line of L'Etrog home and body products so I can live in its clean and golden environment. However, as a personal fragrance it falls a little short, especially compared to the other five Arquiste perfumes. L'Etrog is a bit too pale for my personal taste, and my skin eats it up in record time. Most of the perfume's body disappears after the first 30 minutes and the rest is completely gone in two hours. I certainly understand why the perfumers who worked on L'Etrog (Yan Vasnier and Rodrigo Flores-Roux) didn't ground it in some heavy musk, but I wish there was something there to hold the other notes together a bit longer.

Then we have Etrog by Ayala Moriel Parfums. Perfumer Ayala Sender fondly calls this natural perfume her "Oy de Cologne", but don't be fooled by this. Etrog is actually an eau de parfum, and despite the reputation of many natural perfumes, it last for about four hours with some green and resin residue that lingers afterwards even from a tiny sample, so a full application must be even better. Ayala Moriel's  Etrog feels almost meditative: uplifting at first and then calming. Like the rare and expensive Etrog fruit itself, the perfume is almost mystical. It was also a labor of love as Ayala Sender tinctured the Etrogs herself from fresh organic fruit sent by her family in Israel; also the rabbi of downtown Vancouver donated his family's Etrogs for 3 consecutive years. The result of the effort is a balsamic aromatic perfume even more than a citrus. The fruitiness of Etrog is not so much fresh pulpy as it's a delicious reminder of spicy citron jam. The incense in the dry-down is especially beautiful. There's a hint of sweetness and a cool touch of early evening breeze, and it lasts for several blissful hours.

Arquiste L'Etrog notes: Calabrese Cedrat (Citron in French), Myrtle, Date Fruit, Vetiver.

Ayala Moriel Parfums Etrog notes: Ambergris, Balsam Poplar Buds, Citron (Etrog) Tincture, Frankincense, Green Myrtle, Honey Absolute Japanese Mint, Lemon Myrtle, Olive Tree Resin Opoponax, Petitgrain Cedrat, Pomelo Peel Tincture.

Arquiste L'Etrog ($165, 55ml) is available from BeautyHabit, Aedes, Barneys and Osswald in NYC.
Etrog by Ayala Moriel Parfums ($48, 4ml. Other sizes and samples also available) can be purchased from ayalamoriel.com.
Samples of both perfumes were provided to me free of charge.

Image: arquiste.com

Monday, June 18, 2012

A Quick Perfume News Roundup



Here are a couple of perfume-related bits and pieces that I thought are worth mentioning before I post tonight's perfume review:

A kind reader spotted a tester of L'artisan's Seville a L'Aube at Henri Bendel three weeks ago. I don't know if it's still there or when exactly the other NYC L'Artisan retailers (MiN, Barneys, Aedes) will get it, but if you're in the area it's definitely worth your time, nose and skin.

There's a lot going on at Ayala Moriel Parfums: the new Etrog perfume (a Jewish Oy de Cologne, as Ayala calls it, as "etrog" is the Hebrew word for citron fruit), and a custom perfume making class in San Francisco. More details on Facebook. Also, if you happen to be in Vancouver this coming Sunday, check out the Etrog tea party.

Williams Sonoma will start carrying a special line of Mandy Aftel's Chef's Essences. It's a line of essential oils curated and sourced by Mandy Aftel from around the world for both their flavor and scent that can be used in food and drinks. The essences are: Sweet Basil, Black Pepper, Fresh Ginger, Asian Lemon, Spearmint, and Warm Nutmeg.

And last, some good perfume reading from the last few weeks:
Brian's brilliant take on Bond No. 9. While you're on I Smell Therefore I am, don't miss this post about Overthinking Perfume (and the bloggers guilty of that).
Remember my post about the best perfumes you're not wearing? Barney from Fragrant Moments offers his own twist on the subject, focusing on easy and friendly fragrances. He's spot-on.

Photo: a turn of the (previous) century newsboy in Alaska, from an online auction.


Thursday, December 16, 2010

Ayala Moriel- Espionage


Between the provocative name and the list of notes, Espionage by Ayala Moriel is not what the uninitiated might expect from a natural perfume. Leather, tobacco and musk in a sensual dark blend- Espionage is as seductive as it sounds. It's also nicely long-lasting: I get about 6-8 hours even with light application, and quite a bit more if I use argan oil on my skin before dabbing this extrait de parfum.

The opening is smoky and tarry, all film noir and heavy eyelids. I don't get much or any proper top notes, but that's perfectly fine- who needs fresh and bubbly notes anyway, especially when we can have leather? And possibly a glass of hard liquor somewhere in the mix. Then it turn into the smoothest driest cedar (still with a side of tobacco) and stays this way for a while, until things sweeten up and I find myself surrounded by a sensual musky wood with just a touch of vanilla.

Espionage ends up a lot softer and curvier than it begins- from Angelina Jolie in a black trench coat to Sophia Loren playing spies wearing Dior. And it's utterly fabulous.

Espionage by Ayala Moriel Parfums ($65, 5ml parfum extrait in a roll-on bottle, other sizes, samples and formulation available, including an Espionage-scented chocolate bar) can be found at ayalamoriel.com.

Photo of Sophia Loren and Gregory Peck in Stanley Donen's Arabesque (1966) from stirredstraightup.blogspot.com

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Ayala Moriel- Epice Sauvage


Wearing Epice Sauvage for the first time is fun. One assumes the wrist-to-nose position and starts inhaling, trying to take it all in while identifying each and every spice in the blend, and they are all there and very obvious at first-cardamom, cinnamon and clove, smooth, spicy and warm like a wonderful cup of chai.

The exotic theme continues, but in another direction once the jasmine makes an appearance. Natural perfumer Ayala Sender of Ayala Moriel Parfums is a jasmine sorceress. She takes this somewhat problematic note and brings out the best in it. Hot summer nights in a beautiful faraway land, the sensuality and the more delicate aspects of jasmine are woven together with the spices into a heady perfume that is all silk and color.

The perfume dries down into a honeyed wood base, well-balanced and not too sweet. Some of the spices, especially clove and cinnamon keep popping up and maintaining the exotic oriental feel of Epice Sauvage. The lasting power depends on how much one uses, and I find that a normal application of several dabs of the parfum extrait to the pulse points only lasts a couple of hours. This led me to using most of my second sample and almost bathe in it. I was in spice heaven for the better part of a day.

Epice Sauvage ($110, 9 ml extrait de parfum) is available from ayalamoriel.com. It also comes in several other sizes and formulations. A sample pack of six scents is currently priced at $40.

Image: Model Anne Gunning in Jaipur, India by Norman Parkinson, Vogue, November 1956

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Ayala Moriel- Ayalitta



Some summer days feel like the embodiment of childhood. Not necessarily a specific person's childhood, just the  general idea of carefree days stretching endlessly, playing outdoors at all hours and eating lemon popsicles. Ayala Moriel composed Ayalitta as a reminder of child-like innocence, but this is not your typical "young" perfume. Far from it, actually. Ayalitta is a chypre, all oakmoss and green galbanum, with a dry-down that is fully grown up.

The overall impression is very green. The herbal notes have a surprising tartness that captures your attention from the start and never fully leaves the skin. It goes well with the neroli and feels very uplifting and optimistic. Soon it morphs into a fully developed chypre with all the depth and character one desires. The scent moves through its development smoothly like a green forest nymph, bare feet on mossy ground. At some point, before Ayalitta dissipates, there's a hint of a more carnal element, a touch of sticky sweaty skin, and then it's gone, leaving you guessing.

The sillage and lasting time are among the more persistent of Ayala's perfumes. Then again, green notes usually stay with me longer than I expect. The remnants of Ayalitta on my pillow welcome me back the next day. What's left on fabric is a bit cleaner than the way it feels on skin- maybe it's the coolness of sage. It also works well on cold winter days. There's something about crisp chypres that make them come alive in a different and wonderful way.

Ayalitta by Ayala Moriel Parfums ($120, 10ml parfum oil) and various sample sets are available from ayalamoriel.com

Art: Young Lady With Gloves by Tamara de Lempicka, 1930

Monday, May 10, 2010

Ayala Moriel Yasmin Giveaway- The winner

The winner of a mini bottle of Ayala Moriel Yasmin extrait is Jane from Canada (See_Jane_Sell). Please contact me directly!

Monday, May 03, 2010

Yasmin by Ayala Moriel Parfums- Giveaway



Natural perfumer Ayala Sender of Ayala Moriel Parfums is offering The Non-Blonde readers the opportunity to win a mini bottle of Yasmin extrait (4ml). To participate in the draw, please leave a comment and tell us about natural perfumes you've tried so far, which ones are your favorites or if you haven't tried any, what makes you interested in natural perfumes.

Image: Winter Jasmine Fairy by Cicely Mary Barker, circa 1930-1940

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Yasmin- Ayala Moriel Parfums



Jasmin soliflores can go wrong very easily. Make them too indolic and they're mostly unwearable in polite company. Use too much synthetics or cheap materials and you get a bathroom product. Combine the jasmine with too many other high pitched white flowers and you get the olfactory equivalent of a Celine Dion and Clay Aiken lovechild. But when it's done right, jasmine can take you places: a perfect summer night long ago with a special someone. A joyful early morning in the spring, the air is full of birds and hope.

Yasmin by natural perfumer Ayala Sender of Ayala Moriel Parfums is my definition of jasmin perfection. There's a balance between green and creamy; a mild and abstract fruity note that melds and becomes one with the skin. Yasmin is naturally sensual without any hint of vulgarity, and this is the perfumer's greatest achievement in this perfume. She succeeded in avoiding both the familiar clichés of jasmine-centered perfumes (we don't really need another Joy, right?) and the over-sexualized skank.

Yasmin is uplifting as it envelops the wearer in its beauty. The perfume is strong enough to be noticed without invading people's personal space. It's like wearing a very pretty dress that fits you to perfection and flatters you without screaming "fashion statement!". It's not tame, by any means, but you need to look (or smell) closely to notice the danger hidden inside.

Yasmin by Ayala Moriel comes in several sizes, both as a perfume oil ($65, 5ml)  and an alcohol based parfum extrait ($110, 9 ml) as well as a creme parfum. Available from ayalamoriel.com, where you can purchase sample sets, which is what I did.

Photo: myvintagevogue.com

Friday, February 12, 2010

Ayala Moriel Parfums- Roses et Chocolat


A couple of years ago I had a wonderful dessert at a downtown restaurant. It was a fragrant chai bread pudding with dark chocolate chips. It was so wonderful that the following weekend the husband and I tried to recreate it at home and fairly succeeded. The most memorable part of baking the pudding was the scent that filled the house- the mixture of spice, milk and chocolate. Smelling Ayala Moriel's Roses et Chocolat, a perfume originally created for Valentine's Day, reminds me of that aroma.

Roses et Chocolat is a spicy gourmand with a nice dose of a very dark rose. I'm usually not a rose person, but these are rich red roses that absorb the spice and never turn sour. Instead there's velvety smoothness that is sexy and tempting, like the perfect red lipstick and lacy lingerie. The chocolate doesn't hurt this image, either. There's a sensuality of opening a luxurious box of handmade truffles and picking them one by one- some are filled with rose cream, others with allspice and nutmeg.

Roses et Chocolat is a parfum extrait, so no wonder it feels so luxurious. Ayala Moriel Parfums is an all-natural line by Vancouver-based perfumer Ayala Sender. These perfumes are the real thing and have the kind of depth we often wish to find in fragrance and rarely do nowadays. It reminds us that perfume can be a true luxury and not just a lab product. What could be better for Valentine's Day?

Roses et Chocolat ($110, 9 ml, currently on a seasonal discount for $99. The scent also comes in travel size and assorted other products) can be purchased from ayalamoriel.com. I've been testing a nice sample set that my husband bought me a few months ago.

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