I'm still not sure I have the right words for Rozy. Anna, a long-time reader whose comments are always make me feel like she's my long-lost sister, had this to say:
"And Rozy - I feel like I should send Vero Kern dozens of roses or something for having created this - although, in truth, nothing I could offer would truly be sufficient to express the appreciation I feel over being able to experience this scent."She's spot-on.
Each one of Vero Kern's creations hits an emotional spot. They're a journey, a transformation, a mood. Everything but a literal sum of their notes. This is somewhat of a rarity in today's perfume world, where people tend to look for simplicity, a single note or a clear label that defines and frames the experience: a fruity-floral is fresh and young, incense is meditative, tuberose is sexy, amber is comforting, and so on. Vero Profumo takes a different path. The complexity is such that it really doesn't matter that Mito is a green magnolia, that Kiki is lavender, Rubj is a white floral, and Onda is Greta Garbo bottled. I wear any of them and I step into a world slightly different than my everyday life. Everything is more intense and also shinier.
And now we have Rozy, so far in two concentrations: voile d'extrait and eau de parfum, with an extrait de parfum coming in a few months. Rozy, in any incarnation, is not quite a rose perfume. It's not even particularly floral. An homage to Anna Magnani in the 1955 movie The Rose Tattoo (with the utterly delicious Burt Lancaster), where she played a woman who loves fiercely and lusts shamelessly. Not surprisingly, honey and animalic notes are just as important as the luscious rose.
There's a strong connection between the Voile d’Extrait of Rozy and Onda. The fiery core and animalic component from Onda are here. They're somewhat toned down, rounded and sweetened, but they speak the same sexy language. Honey is a prominent player here: warm, sensual, being poured slowly and catching the golden light. But Rozy is not a pure hot skin fest. There's an uplifting and exuberant feeling that comes from a red, yellow, orange, and white bouquet. Rose and tuberose in the height of their bloom, a gift from a devoted lover, are the heart and soul of Rozy. It's a smoldering affair, with a robust dry-down that brings the spice, wood, and creamy florals together.
In comparison, the eau de parfum concentration of Rozy creates an even more golden impression. It's more optimistic, devours life and allows a few drops of juice to linger on the chin. I know that there are fruity notes in the Voile as well, but my skin slays them mercilessly as it hangs on to the honey and styrax. The EDP is decidedly peachy- literally and metaphorically. I fully get the comparison to Nahema, which shares its orange rose, peach skin and flesh, and hyacinth. Perfumer Vero Kern likes to adapt her creations to the EDP format by using a passion fruit (in fact, I think she's the one who taught me to appreciate this note). It works just as marvelously for Rozy. The fruit, delicate flowers (the bouquet here has more tender blossoms accenting the roses), and the hint of powder and almost makeupy notes (a vintage boudoir kind of thing) skews Rozy EDP towards the feminine side, but not by much. Men who wear Onda or any of Vero's EDPs for that matter, should give both concentrations a try.
Rozy - Voile d’Extrait notes
melon, blackcurrant, coriander seed, nutmeg, tuberose, rose, honey, sandalwood, labdanum, vanilla, styrax
Rozy - Eau de Parfum notes
passion fruit, peach, hyacinth, lilac, tarragon, rose, honey, and powdery notes
Rozy EDP ($235, 50ml) and Voile d’Extrait ($250, 50ml) are available from Luckyscents.
Top photo: Horst P. Horst, Birthday Gloves, 1947.