Oscars 2012 - Live Blogging The Academy Awards Red Carpet

The first minutes of red carpet arrivals can be awkward. Sometimes even Ryan Seacrest has to consult his notes on the celeb status of some people. Thankfully, tonight opened with some serious glam from Penelope Ann Miller in Badgely Mischka (all I ever envied about blondes) and Milla Jovovich in Elie Saab (one for the non-blondes). Maybe not the most original looks, but oh so stunning:

Berenice Bejo. I don't mind the dress, but the red hair is borderline atrocious. It's nearly the same shade as her face and looks home-dyed. Badly:

Jessica Chastain's dress is probably going to have lovers and haters. Yes, it's a bit costumy, maybe a little over the top, but you know what? It's the Oscars. And at least it's not another sequined blush thingy.

Now, someone needs to say this: George Clooney can and should do much better than Stacy Kiebler. And better than her Las Vegas dress, and better than the rosette on her hip. There, I said it. Call me, George.

Viola Davies in emerald green and her own hair is lovely. I wish we'll see more natural hair on red carpets.

Michelle Williams gets extra points for wearing red and being lovely.

Rooney Mara. I don't know what I think of her (other than too much sternum), I just want to stare. You can join me.

Am I the only one who thinks Busy Phillips' earrings were tacky and looked like cheap 80s baubles?

Another lovely one in red: Emma Stone. I loved the dress, the husband didn't. In any case, Emma wins. Always.

Now, I can't believe I'm saying this, but I liked (most of) J Lo's dress and loved her makeup. Jennifer's makeup was never as subtle. It works.

Doesn't work: Sandra Bullock's dress. Is the fit wrong? Was it a last minute choice? Sandra doesn't look very  happy.

More to love: Natalie Portman in a vintage 1954 haute couture Christian Dior gown, Gwynwth Paltrow in a white cape, and Penelope Cruz doing the princess thing successfully.

All photos: Zimbio

Hermès- Équipage

The 1970s are not necessarily heralded for tasteful fashion and imagery. There are a few exceptions, though, especially in fragrance. They remind us that not all men wore polyester suits with lapels up to here and chest hair down to there. On Savile Row, Tommy Nutter made some the most exquisite suits, reinventing the classic style for his celeb clients of the new generation. On rue du Faubourg in Paris there was and is Hermes.

Equipage, a masculine Hermès fragrance was composed by Guy Robert and Jean-Louis Sieuzac in 1970. I was born that same year, so my perfume sniffing years were still way ahead, so I can't tell how Équipage was perceived then. Today, when smelling both my "vintage" (circa late 80s) bottle and the current version at the Hermes boutique, Équipage give the impression of an old world elegance and refinement. While it's generally a green leather masculine, I'm the one wearing Équipage in our house, as the husband isn't very taken with mossy perfumes on his own skin (I suspect he finds them a bit dated).

Lovers of herbal perfumes will enjoy the green blast in the opening of Équipage. I get clary sage more than anything else, which I love-- it's has complex presence that includes minty facets as well as an almost medicinal bitterness. I love this style of opening notes much better than the generic citrus you find in most masculine scents nowadays. There's life beyond bergamot, after all.

The lion part of Hermès Équipage happens in a wood-paneled, leather-upholstered room where just a hint of pine smoke or incense perfumes the air. There's also a carefully chosen antique vase on the vintage table that holds a large bouquet of colorful flowers that liven up the room. There are enough fresh carnations there to lend a clove note (which is why I never bought a bottle for my dad, dentist's son, who loathes clove). Sometimes I could swear I smell galbanum, but that is most likely just the effect of the other bitter green notes.

As Équipage dries down on my skin, most of the greenery disappears and what's left is a very chypre-like oakmoss-patchouli-vetiver base. It's an almost Bandit-light thing, perhaps a little closer to the original Armani (1981). The base is gender-neutral in my opinion, as long as one likes these kind of thing and enjoys bitter leathers. The sillage is pretty minimal, at least from my old bottle, and the staying power of this EDT is about 6 hours on skin and longer as elegant remnants on scarves and sweaters.

I'm very happy that Hermès keeps Équipage around, even if they don't advertise or promote it in any way. It deserves more attention and recognition, especially from a certain potential consumer who appreciates finer things, has an eye for vintage accessories and really wants to smell a bit different among the Creed and Tom Ford wearers.

Notes (via Bois de Jasmin): marjoram, clary sage, tarragon, carnation, lily of the valley, cinnamon, pine needles, hyssop, liatris, patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, amber, coumarin, and tonka bean.

See more reviews of Equipage on Now Smell This and Bois de Jasmin.

Hermès Équipage is available from Hermes boutiques and top department stores as well as online. Older bottles are relatively easy to find.

Photo of Tommy Nutter circa 1970 from thebespokenfor.net.

Lorac Translucent Touch Up Powder

My usual color in Lorac Translucent Touch Up Powder is actually TL 2, the light-medium option. However, the one you see here is TL 2.5, and I got it because it provides a little extra support and coverage when using a tinted moisturizer (see yesterday's post).

Lorac's translucent powder is very fine and light. It's not drying at all, so I can't comment on how it will perform if you have oily skin. Mine is dry, but I like a polished, finished-to-perfection makeup look, and Lorac's powder is one of few products that give this result without messing up the delicate balance. The little velveteen puff that comes in the compact is utterly useless. If you like puffs, get a good one, but I prefer to use brushes, either a dense one that pushes powder onto the skin or a fluffy one that gives the lightest possible dusting for quick touch-ups.

Bottom Line: a makeup bag staple

Lorac Translucent Touch Up Powder ($32) is available at Sephora and Ulta, in store and online.

Top photo from myvintagevogue.com

Shu Uemura Hard Formula Brow Pencil Seal Brown 02

Shu Uemura Hard Formula Brow Pencil  is a unique product in the brow-savers category. "Hard Formula" doesn't even begin to describe this texture, which causes quite a bit of skepticism at first use until you get the hang of it.  Shu Uemura's brow pencil is, indeed, hard. Very hard. It doesn't yield, so you need to use it in short and precise strokes, otherwise it will pull the skin. The hard formula ensures the pigment will never move and migrate. It also prevents patchy application-- you will not be able to draw a long thin line, exactly because you're not supposed to do it.

Instead, the pencil that only releases pigment on contact with the natural oils of the brows, allows to fill in patchy brows, making them more even and better defined. It just takes a little longer to notice that the pencil actually draws something-- it's far less obvious than when working with a regular pencil or a powder.

Now, personally, I still prefer the control I have when using a brow powder and a good brush. Mostly because that way I can mix a few colors together until I get the right shade. Also, since my brows are pretty full, the powders hold on perfectly and I never have issues with smearing and fading. But those of you who need extra help are likely to find the Shu Uemura Hard Formula pencil to be a brow saver.

Swatching this Shu Uemura pencil was not easy. But I wanted to give you a good idea about the color of  Seal Brown 02. It's a cool dusty dark brown that matches dark non-black eye brows. It has no red and hardly any warmth, which is important to me. The finished look I get is wonderfully natural. I can't tell I did much with the brows, but the sparse areas are just a little fuller.

Bottom Line: for just about everyone.

Shu Uemura Hard Formula Brow Pencil ($23) is available from shuuemura-usa.com or at the counters if you're lucky enough to have them in your countries.

Photo of Joan Crawford: Stirred Straight Up With A Twist.

Aftelier Chocolate And Saffron Body Oil & Hair Elixir

Aftelier Chocolate and Saffron Body Oil & Hair Elixir should probably come with a warning label for people on a strict diet, because it's bound to cause serious cravings (I'm chomping on some milk chocolate as we speak).  The scent of this oil is so scrumptious it's almost indecent. It's a very lightly spiced chocolate with a hint of what I can only describe as yellow flowers. Chocolate and warm sun on your skin-- can it get any better?

The Chocolate And Saffron body oil/hair elixir is part of perfumer Mandy Aftel's expanded Aftelier line. I didn't know what exactly to expect, but the instantly-absorbing texture caught me by surprise-- made of jojoba oil and fractionated coconut oil-- leaves no grease behind. It's incredibly softening and gentle on the skin. Also, once I got brave enough to try the oil/elixir on my hair the effect was similar: smooth, soft, and wonderfully smelling without weighing down (I have very thick long hair).

The effect of the elixir on my gator skin lasts for 4-6 hours (much longer on my hair), the fragrance remains close to the skin and doesn't invade other's space. It's ideal either under chocolaty perfumes (Aftelier Cacao) or by itself before bed, especially if you prefer soft and non-distracting scents. As long as you can deal with the forming addiction. Just make sure you shake the bottle well before use, as the heavier parts tend to sink to the bottom.

Aftelier Chocolate And Saffron Body Oil & Hair Elixir ($40, 3.5 oz) is available from aftelier.com, where you can also purchase samples of this one and the other four scents. The products was sent to me free of charge by the perfumer.

Photo: levanacooks.com

Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 (and tips for dealing with winter skin)

'Tis the season. For wan, pale flaky skin, that is. I do my best and employ all the big skincare guns, but some days are just not pretty, especially while having even the mildest cold. I know that for many, the first instinct (well, second, after hiding under the blankets until spring brings better skin days) is to cover it all up, but you know this never ever works.

My three part solution is simple: First, moisturize. It's a no-brainer, but don't experiment. Use something tried and true that you know will work for your skin. I've been using Embryolisse Lait Creme Concentre ($16 at BeautyHabit) and it makes me feel better instantly.

Then, use a hydrating primer. I'm a huge fan of primers and never ever put on my makeup without one, no matter what. Yes, they work. Yes, they make a difference. It's a matter of find the right one(s) for both your skin and your base makeup. A good primer will enhance the performance of whatever you apply on top, including a tinted moisturizer. I'm on my second tube of Smashbox Photo Finish Hydrating Primer, which works wonderfully with every tinted moisturizer I have: Laura Mercier SPF 20, Smashbox's ones and LMdB Peau Vierge.  They all do their thing better with some support.

The last step is a good tinted moisturizer. Peau Vierge is my go-to product, but I've had several days lately that my skin was paler and greener than usual. None of my foundations and tinted moisturizers looked right. Now, I'm not Snow White. I'm olive with a clear Mediterranean look, but I'm also pale, so all those light-medium shades with lots of yellow pigment rarely match me even on a good day. Luckily, a quick rummaging in my foundation drawer brought forth this Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 in Nude, the second to lightest shade.

The texture of Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 is wonderfully light and truly moisturizing. It adheres to the skin with magical ease, and smooths things just enough to give a healthier and more even look. It makes me appear... dare I say it...? Human. And alive. The swatch you see is a) too heavy, and b) not blended. Still, you can see how close it is to my natural color and that the texture is very light.  The primer makes this base color last for as long as I need it and helps create the smooth appearance. Laura Mercier's tinted moisturizer is among the finest I've come across. Having an SPF 20 doesn't hurt, either.

Bottom Line: I wish they offered more shades, for days I look a little more alive.

Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 ($42) is available from the counters, Sephora and lauramercier.com. The one you see here was a GWP.

Laura Mercier Topaz Luster Eye Colour

I love the texture of Laura Mercier Luster Eye Colour shadows-- it's smooth and iridescent while still maintaining a low-key sophistication that makes them an easy choice on a daily basis. Topaz, a hard to describe taupe with a  pink cast, is something I often use to bind and blend other colors together. It's a color that lends itself to many looks, from the typical understated Laura Mercier ones to the less neutral. It always works.

The high level of shimmer creates some mess in and around the compact, but on a well-primed lid I don't get any debris. It stays put, remains pretty and holds its own against other high quality eye shadows.

Bottom Line: a basic.

Laura Mercier Topaz Luster Eye Colour ($22) is available at the counters and from lauramercier.com.