M.Micallef- Pomelos

Here's something easy and light for the oppressive summer weather we're heaving: Pomelos by M.Micallef.  Despite the name (and the notes listed on Fragrantica), Pomelos is far less about citrus fruit than it is about powdery flowers. This 2002 Micallef perfume opens with a breeze carrying a whiff from a lemon grove and settles on the skin in a heap of tiny pollen-laden blossoms. The fragrance has the sheerest hint of fruit, mostly in the musky dry-down, a touch of fuzzy peach skin and peachy smelling iris (sounds crazy, but if you're familiar with the subtle iris note in Serge Lutens Daim Blond or Clair de Musc you probably know what I'm talking about).

 Pomelos makes me think of a blush-colored silk dress. It clings to the body here and there but still looks and feels demure. So does the fragrance. The pretty heavy white musk of the dry-down is of the very clean variety, though it's not laundryish. The impression it gives is of a weather-blanched driftwood, which contributes to the summer beach in late afternoon image. Said shore scene is probably more of a wishful thinking than anything grounded in reality (or in actual perfume notes). What I do know for sure is that Micellef's Pomelos is a pretty chill perfume. It's casual and relaxing, somewhat lacking in longevity (about four hours unless I really go to town spraying) and a good fit for the heat and insane humidity of this week.

Notes: pomelo, lemon, tangerine, jasmine, rose, iris, lily of the valley, cedar, sandalwood, white musk.

Pomelos by M.Micallef ($89, 1 oz EDP) is available from Osswald in NYC and Parfum1.com.

Art: Pomelos by Pierre Farel

Ginnifer Goodwin: Two Makeup Looks

I know that not all of you share my love for Ginnifer Goodwin, but I can't help it. I find her adorable and unique looking. She also seems to enjoy makeup and is not averse to taking some risks (yes, yes, I know. Her Met Gala look-- below-- was beyond atrocious, but I'm trying to repress that memory).

Ginnifer's Met Gala punk look

The two looks above are from last week. Ginnifer attended the Disney Media Networks International Upfronts sporting a cat eye and a purple (or fuchsia. Depending on the light and the angle) lip color. Her chosen outfit was less sharp. The Theory jumpsuit was simply not pretty or flattering, and even a blazer couldn't save it (to see a good jumpsuit have a look at the stunning Solange Knowles). I'm still trying to determine if the blush Ginnifer clashes too much with the lipstick. At least it's interesting.

Ginnifer Goodwin arrives at the Disney Media Networks International 'Upfronts 2013'

Ginnifer Goodwin and boyfriend, Josh Dallas, Vogue and MAC Cosmetics dinner hosted by Lisa Love and John Demsey in honour of Prabal Gurung

The other look from Monday night the previous week was softer. The shimmery taupe eye shadow took center stage (and complemented her Prabal Gurung dress), accompanied by natural looking lip and cheek. Those of you with a encyclopedic MAC knowledge may be able to identify the eye shadow(s) used-- the company was the co-host of the Vogue dinner honoring Prabal Gurung.

Which makeup look is your favorite?

All photos of Ginnifer Goodwin via Zimbio.

Shiseido High Beam White Luminizing Satin Face Color

I love highlighters. I love them in liquid, cream and powder form. I love them golden, pearly or with a champagne tint. I love them shiny or muted. I just love the way highlighters can give the skin an extra shot of pretty. Shiseido High Beam White is probably considered a classic by now. It's the most subtle of its kind, as understated than Kevyn Aucoin Candlelight,  but a bit easier to catch in a photo because Shiseido is pearly white. I swatched heavily using the scratchy little brush that came in the compact. Normal application (a small  Yachiyo or Laura Mercier fan brush are far more suitable, as is Chikuhodo Z2) will not look as white and will add just a little bit of light where you need it.

Donating my face to science I once tried using Shiseido High Beam White as an allover finishing powder. Don't try this at home. As finely milled as Shiseido makes this product it is not a substitute for Guerlain Meteorites. The effect was like using Rouge Bunny Rouge Sea Of Unicorns or whatever they call their liquid highlighters (which I love. They're beyond beautiful) on your entire face over foundation. Not a good look for an adult woman.

In any case, Shiseido High Beam White Luminizing Satin Face Color is an excellent highlighter. If you're very warm-toned maybe it will be too white (Shiseido also makes a pale gold version that's too yellow for my green undertones), so do test at the counter before you decide.

Bottom Line: there's a reason why Shiseido makeup is so revered.

Shiseido High Beam White Luminizing Satin Face Color ($30) is available at the counters, Sephora and shiseido.com. It's part of the blush range.

Chanel Gardenia (Les Exclusifs EDT)

As Chanel makeup line is evolving and becoming more innovative and sophisticated than ever before, the fragrance line seems to be taking steps in the opposite direction. We all know that everything was reformulated, diluted and cheapened (while the retail price climbs higher and higher); Chanel Gardenia, formerly part of the boutique line that included Cuir de Russie and Bois des Iles, was assimilated into Les Exclusifs range, the big vats of EDT (now also in somewhat more reasonable bottles and the extrait is back as well). While I was never a huge fan of Chanel Gardenia I did have some respect for its very blonde elegance. However, testing the most recent version of the eau de toilette left me more flabbergasted with Chanel than ever before.

It's no secret that Gardenia was never a true gardenia scent. As a matter of fact, Turin/Sanchez labeled it as a "Not Gardenia", and who can blame them? While gardenia as a note is pretty hard to capture in a realistic way (the flower is nearly impossible to extract and tincture), there are many interesting approximations on the market, older and new (here are several favorites-- without searching and just from immediate memory: Goutal Un Matin d'Orage, JAR Jardenia and Bolt Of Lightning, Arquiste Boutonniere no. 7, Isabey Gardenia, Tom Ford Velvet Gardenia, Ineke Hothouse Flower, and the brilliant Serge Lutens Une Voix Noire). So what exactly is the point of a gardenia with none of the sultriness, sweet and salty aspects, or heady sensuality?

I can't figure it out. And I tried. I swear.

The current version of Chanel Gardenia opens with an abstract approximation of a very polite white floral. It's not quite tuberose, not quite orange blossom and only offers a hint of a beachy tropical humidity that may or may not be related to gardenia. I smell green leaves, something ripe and almost interesting behind the shockingly synthetic floral veil, but this hint of hope fades away quickly. The whole thing is as fake as a Taylor Swift relationship and has little presence, an ephemeral sillage and barely any personality. Chanel Gardenia is not bad: it's difficult to dislike something that's trying so hard to be pretty. And Gardenia is pretty in a very inoffensive and utterly forgettable way.

I like whatever is left on the skin after about five hours. It's a milky musk with a beachy undertone. If I had to  choose between Gardenia and, say, Jennifer Aniston's fragrance there's no doubt I'd go with the smooth and more balanced Chanel, but that doesn't say much, does it? Chanel Gardenia in its current formula is the ghost of something that could have been great. The structure and cheekbones are there, just not the curves and flesh.

Chanel Gardenia ($130, 2.5oz EDT) is available at Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue flagship store, Chanel boutiques and chanel.com.

Images: La Chanelphile, Hprints, Chanel website and an old online auction.

Want: Diane Von Furstenberg Fall 2013 Dress

DVF Fall 2013 looked extra promising when I saw the Fashion Week photos. I already earmarked a few looks (I add a couple of DVF classics to my wardrobe every season and wear them year after year), including Look No.30 from the runway seen here on Zoe Saldana (from her Friday night appearance on Jimmy Fallon's show).  Obviously, this is a version of Diane von Furstenberg's classic wrap dress with an added keyhole neckline and more elaborate sleeves. I adore the print (there are some other great prints and patterns in this fall collection, including the one Diane herself was wearing at the end of her show). I have to say that I like Zoe in this dress a lot better than Cara Delevinge who modeled it. Zoe's Louboutins are prettier (and probably comfier. As much as I worship at the altar of DVF, the shoes are often so badly molded I can't stand in them for too long).

Photos of Zoe Saldana via Zimbio; DVF show via Style.com.

Hourglass Gypsy Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo

Reviews of Hourglass eye shadow duos write themselves at this point. I received this duo in Gypsy directly from Hourglass and it joined the other ones I already have: the dramatic Prism, elegant tone-on-tone Suede, and classic Dune. Gypsy is a high contrast cream ivory/bronze combination with a smooth almost metallic shiny finish (no glitter or any particles).

 The silky texture of Gypsy is the usual Hourglass luxurious fare. Both colors are easy to blend and can be used together or for a single shadow look. These are basic year-round shades. Nothing innovative about ivory and bronze, but it's the quality and performance that make Hourglass duos a must-have for me. They're among my quick and easy no-brainer makeup products: pretty and quick.  Gypsy can also be the base of a hot summer with a touch of teal, turquoise or aqua along the lash line.

I always use a primer and find that Hourglass eye shadows maintain their intensity and finish from morning till night including on humid summer days. I hope eventually Hourglass will release a few more color combinations, and I definitely have to add Lagoon and Exhibition to my collection at some point. They've been calling my name for a while-- and just think of pairing Lagoon with Gypsy!

Hourglass Gypsy Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo ($38) is available at Bergdorf, Barnyes, and Sephora. The product for this review was supplied by the company free of charge.