The eau de parfum version of Bergamoss by Aftelier has an incredible clarity, like the first sunny day after a storm. Yet there's also the furry and intimate quality I find in the original Bergamoss solid perfume, that connects it to the civet-oakmoss classic perfumes without actually imitating them. At first spritz the bergamot is brighter, the peach has a peach blossom to peach skin trajectory, and the green notes are greener. It's also more perfumy, from the basic sensation of spraying and projecting a noticeable sillage and the way a liquid acts on skin. In this sense, Bergamoss edp is related more closely to iconic chypres that evoke vintage furs and handbags than its solid form.
However, the bright green facet of oakmoss and the way it's enhanced by the other notes connect this limited edition Aftelier perfume to nature: the mossy path among the trees, or at least the its fantasy equivalent for someone like me who doesn't do real nature. I get all the beauty and romance without the need for walking shoes.
The animalic side of Bergamoss is my favorite part. Civet tends to become sweet and cozy on my skin. I think the eau de parfum ends up sweeter and warmer, which surprised me given the more intimate nature of the solid perfume. It might be application and amount. spraying semi-lavishly has given me more quality time with Bergamoss and the opportunity to capture it around me and between layers of clothing. The result is slightly heady (for a civet-lover, at least), and very pleasurable. Beyond that, the two versions of Bergamoss are very very close.The liquid, being more volatile, can be somewhat of a 3D special effect. Not just technically but also emotionally. Bergamoss wears like an armor, a favorite makeup look or an investment accessory. Mandy Aftel's meticulous craftsmanship has resulted in a a strength potion, a magical brew. I sometimes expect the small bottle to levitate on its own.
If I understand correctly, the reason the eau de parfum is a limited edition is the rarity and scarcity of some ingredients. I wish it wasn't the case because this version is somewhat more accessible (conceptually and financially), and because I love it so much. I guess that like all unicorns it's just not meant to exist forever in our world.
Aftelier Bergamoss Eau de Parfum ($60, 9 ml travel spray bottle) is available for the next month and a half on aftelier.com. Mandy Aftel says it'll be around until around Valentine's Day, but not long beyond that.
The press sample for this review was sent by the perfumer.
Art: Odilon Redon- Arbres et Maisons: Vue d’Hiver, 1880