I refuse to title this review "vintage perfume". I just won't do it.
My bottle is not from 1985 (the yesr Goutal launched Sables) or even close. It's from the end of the previous decade or early from this one. I have cats older than that.
Sables by Annick Goutal is inexplicably labeled as a masculine. I think it's a perfect example of a gender-free perfume. it doesn't matter who and what you are when it comes to Sables. You just need to really really love immortelle and its fenugreek/maple syrup smell. Yes, there's a mellow sandalwood and amber dry-down that leads the fragrance into calmer waters, but from the very first spray to the last whiff I can capture, this is a major immortelle perfume. More so than anything else in my personal collection (and I'm not one to shy away from this note). The husband smells the spice notes better than I do. Apparently there's cinnamon (I get it) and pepper (completely alludes me). He finds it as easy to wear as I do and doesn't get the controversy around immortelle. It smells great, end of story.
When it comes to sweetness, I Goutal's Sables less gourmand than ELdO Like This and not as syrupy as Chypre Rouge (Lutens), both I love (probably even more so than Sables). Projection is average, as is longevity, unless you saturate yourself with it like a waffle. I don't know how the current version (in the more elegant box) measures up, beyond a quick sniff I got which seems more mellow than the juice I have. It's still easy to find the older bottles with the more elaborate labels and boxes.
The current version of Sables by Annick Goutal is available at the brand's boutique and from Aedes ($149, 100ml). Please comment if you've smelled it recently and how do you think it compares to the original.
Photo of a butterfly on an immortelle flower via smartup.rs