Tuesday, April 08, 2008

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier- Fleur d'Iris

Spring is really here. I haven't worn a heavy coat in a couple of weeks, my back yard has some interesting signs of life (and I don't mean Steve, our resident groundhog) and I'm playing with perfumes that have more green and floral notes.

Or iris.

While the orris perfume note is actually made of the roots, the rhizomes, and is earthy and cool, this isn't exactly the feeling you expect or desire in a perfume called Fleur d'Iris. And, indeed, this is as far from the legendary Tauer Orris as you can get. There's no leather or dirt here, and the scent is decidedly feminine, powdery and sweet, sweet, sweet.

It definitely evokes some flowers, but on my skin, as soon as the vegetal-rose opening fades (I quite like it, even with the strangeness and almost leek aftertaste it can give), the scent starts warming until it becomes all violet, and a candied one, at that. It's not too sweet, and I manage to enjoy it, despite not being the greatest fan of powdery flowers. It's probably the amounts of vanilla that make it warm and deep instead of vintage face product. In fact, after a few hours of wearing I always think that if only it had a touch of tonka bean it would have passed as a Guerlain.

Like quite a few of the feminine MPGs, Fleur d'Iris is pleasant and wearable, but not too original. It's pretty, would probably delight vanilla and violet lovers and for an EdT, the lasting power is impressive (8-10 hours on my dry skin, a rarity), but it doesn't wow me the same way several of the masculine fragrances from this line do. Expect an ode to Parfum d'Habit, Route du Vetiver and Iris Bleu Gris in the near future.

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier line is available from Henri Bendel and Aedes in NYC as well as other premium retailers. I'm still using a sample pack I bought on eBay in the good old days.

Art: Iris by
Sofia Perina Miller


  1. What a gorgeous painting!
    I agree about feminine MPGs. The masculines rock my world though. :-)

  2. I love MPG ... my fave is and probably always will be George Sand as I adore her story (and her writings for that matter) ... great post!

  3. Marina- Yes, the masculines are quirky and original. I've heard that RdV has been reformulated, which really scares me. I need to hoard a bottle or two.

  4. Roxy- I'll need to dig up a sample and try it. The note list of GS has always scared me, but I hear so much praise that I must give it a chance.

  5. What a beautiful image and a review to boot! I haven't invested in a full bottle of MPG yet, but the thought torments me: what if I am missing greatness? (indeed a couple of masculines are calling my name lately...)


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