Of course I love Fleur Nocturne. It reminds me of the grand florals of the late 80s and early 90s, and feels right at home between Tresor and Jil Sander No.4. It's also a sister fragrance to Isabey's Gardenia, a creamy and warm white flower composition. Gardenia is featured prominently here as well, pared with magnolia and peach and apricot blossom (instead of the ylang in Gardenia) that give it the character.
The first few times I've smelled Fleur Nocturne I questioned the "nocturne" part. This perfume felt too sunny and cheerful for that. But think about an evening gown and the skin it leaves exposed. Fleur Nocturne is exactly about that: the tactile sensation of peach skin and human skin come together, and the visual of a candle-lit face, the light reflecting from mirrored Art Deco surfaces. That is kind of nocturnal, right?
The creamy gardenia is intertwined with vanilla that gives it a tropical touch as well as the larger-than-life sillage. It's a very sexy composition, something to wear on a date night, especially in the summer when the perfume blooms and wafts, sending a not-so-subtle invitation. It's a style you either love or you really really don't. It's a bold perfume, very feminine, and it walks the line between retro and modern very successfully. If it were a truly Art Deco perfume you'd get a plush animalic base (and a leopard print chase lounge). As it is, the peach fuzz and sweet jasmine is as close as it gets. Sometimes that's more than enough.
Isabey- Fleur Nocturne ($170, 50ml eau de parfum) is available from Twisted Lily, Luckyscent and Aedes.
Photos of the magnificent Norma Shearer in the 1930s via jacksonupperco.com.