Gold Leather by Atelier Cologne was released last year alongside Silver Iris as part of Atelier's Collection Métal. These perfumes are all about precious materials and luxurious packaging-- the bottle of Gold Leather is covered in real gold, and they smell the part. Though in the case of this one, the upscale facet becomes more obvious once the booze of the top notes burns down to a level that won't get one arrested if a cops pulls you over while wearing this Atelier Cologne creation.
I mean it. Wearing Gold Leather out of the sprayer smells like hard liquor. It's a swanky party, for sure, where the bartender has mixed some exotic ingredients to spice things up. Soon the rum and who-knows-what-else (you can tell that I don't drink beyond the occasional bubbly) is joined by a beautiful saffron note, a slightly inebriated plum and a noticeable wood accord that's plushy and oudy, giving the impression that there's also some rose there, but it's a phantom note created by the presence of saffron and oud. I don't smell anything new in Gold Leather, but the familiarity of the composition is enhanced by Atelier Cologne's perfect execution. It hits the spot perfectly, even if it's not quite the spot I had in mind
There's a lot going on in Atelier's Gold Leather and it's all good, except for the part that there's not enough leather (or longevity) for my taste. I was probably hoping for a gilded Knize Ten, but the leather in Gold Leather is juicier and cuddlier than I expected. It's very nice, though: utterly informal, evoking the warmth of a small gathering of good friends in front of a fireplace on a winter night. Drinks and laughter are flowing while old jazz favorites are playing softly in the background.
Notes: bitter orange, saffron, rum, plum, davana, eucalyptus, gaiac wood, cedarwood, leather, oud accord.
Atelier Cologne- Gold Leather ($195, 100ml Cologne Absolue concentrated at 18%) is available at Neiman Marcus and from Atelier Cologne stores.
Art: Pablo Picasso, Glass and bottle of Straw Rum, 1914.