A sure sign of a good perfume is when I enjoy it despite it genre and/or specific notes. That's the case with Passerelle by Australian indie brand Tommi Sooni. The idea of Passerelle is using a classic French floral structure and infusing it with notes of native Australian flowers. I can't vouch for the authenticity of the Australian flora, but Passerelle definitely reads like a classic French fragrance with a modern twist.
The thing is that with few notable exclusions I'm usually not a fan of literal floral perfumes, and Passerelle is all about endless petals and stems. Victoria of EauMG described this Tommi Sooni creation as "a humid, waxy, fatty floral" and I agree. The first twenty minutes or so smell like the inside of a florist shop, which isn't exactly my first choice as a personal scent, yet the flowers here are so bold, colorful, and realistic that I have to succumb to their magic, even when that charm strangely emanates from my own décolletage.
As Passerelle warms on my skin and befriends it, the fragrance becomes (almost) all about mimosa. And I love mimosa-- the honey, the pollen-like aspect, the cheerful yellowness that it exudes. And have I mentioned the honey? Passerelle graduates from a honeyed floral to honeyed wood with a touch of spicy naughtiness in the very late dry-down, and that's exactly what I look for in my perfumes.
Notes: Petitgrain, Jasmine, Boronia buds, Mimosa. yellow rose, Honeysuckle, Golden trumpet, Wintersweet, Honey myrtle, Tea tree, Australian sandalwood, Civet.
Passerelle by Tommi Sooni ($180, 50ml EDP) is available from tommisooni.com (shipping is free, Paypal accepted), where you can also purchase samples of all five Tommi Sooni fragrances. The sample for this review was provided by the company during Elements Showcase.
Top photo: Spinnerin, 1966, via myvintagevogue.com.