Atelier Cologne perfumes are made with mathematical precision. The people of Atelier zero in on their target note, build a structure that let it shine, while making it appear so simple. But it isn't-- that "feel good" element typical of Atelier Cologne can't be that easy to do, especially when we're dealing with ideas that usually bore me out of my skull. Like citrus.
We're in the beginning of the most depressing part of winter. I'm already over it, so an exuberant fragrance that promises an endless summer of long days, a dream vacation, fun nights with friends in your magical backyard that's free of bugs but full of night-blooming flowers-- I'll take it. I want it now.
Atelier Cologne already showed us what they can do with orange . After a sojourn into darker notes in Silver Iris and Gold Leather they're back to their roots with Cedrat Envirant ("Intoxicating Citron", and nothing to do with cedar). Cedrat Envirant is as sparkling as citrus goes. It's tart, mouthwatering, bright, and realistic. It's also incredibly lovable even for me. I kind of wanted to be a bit snarky in face of all that lime juice, but I can't. It's so happy that you have to join the fun.
Like all really good citrus perfumes, Cedrat Envirant sits on a solid base of resins and wood. The aromatic brightness slides into the dry-down seamlessly as the perfume becomes sweeter and gains a sleek richness. I'm reminded of the way Mona di Orio's Eau Absolue develops on skin, from zesty fruit to a slightly dirty wood-labdanum base. Cedrat has a thinner and simpler base that lacks the emotional component I find in Mona's Eau. It goes down more easily, of course, and if you found Eau Absolue too animalic this might be the right answer.
Notes: citron, lime, bergamot, mint, basil, juniper berries, tonka bean, vetiver, and elemi.
Atelier Cologne-Cedrat Enivrant ($65, 30ml) is available from Luckyscent, Neiman Marcus, and Atelier Cologne boutiques around the world.
Art: Lime by Craig Stephens.