All of a sudden there's a new fragrance at the top of my wishlist: Treazon by Ayala Moriel. Perfumer Ayala Sender unknowingly created something I've been dreaming about for a while: a spicy vanilla tuberose perfume that has some serious funk in there but is still breathtakingly beautiful.
Treazon is a natural perfume and the bitter medicinal opening definitely asserts it. I like this non-perfumy opening and it has some of that medicinal quality of Tubereuse Criminelle-- a little green, a little poisonous- it grabs your attention immediately. I smell spices: more anise than cinnamon, and they offer a very warm contrast to the bitter green and camphor that preceded them. This is where my nose gets glued to my skin. I want to catch every whiff and nuance and pay attention to that moment when the tuberose that's been lurking starts to unfold and bloom.
Ayala Moriels's tuberose is a true femme fatale. She teases and tempts, all the while you know she's nothing but danger. Tuberose has that effect when at its best (hello, Fracas!), and this is some great stuff. But what I love most here is the even more narcotic vanilla in the dry-down. It's infused with all the spice and nectar that run through the veins of Treazon, and has a distinct dark and almost animalic character that make the fragrance wonderfully sexy and addictive. Ayala doesn't list any of the usual suspects that tend to create this effect, so it's either all in my head, my skin or (most likely) in the exquisite raw materials and expert execution.
I've been dabbing the most minute amounts of perfume to my skin so I can stretch the sample. Even the tiniest drop has an impressive longevity of several hours; even though it's hard to gauge sillage this way I'd say your nearest and dearest will be able to smell you just fine with even modest application.
Notes: Anise Seed, Benzoin Siamese, Birch Cassis, Cinnamon, Massoia Bark, Orris Root, Tuberose Absolute, Vanilla Absolute.
Treazon by Ayala Moriel Parfums will be released any day now. Samples are already available from ayalamoriel.com ($17 for 1 ml). The sample for this review was provided by the perfumer.
Image: a 1930 Burberry hat and trench coat by Hulton-Deutsch Collection/CORBIS.