Thursday, January 31, 2013

Meeting The Perfumer


Six years ago I met my first perfumer in person. It was Andy Tauer, an artist whom I've admired for a while (I already owned four of his perfumes at that point). I was a fairly new blogger then (The Non-Blonde was barely a year old), still working on finding my voice and teaching myself how to use my words to tell the reader what a perfume is all about. Meeting a real live perfumer and hearing him talk about his art, inspiration and the process of creating a fragrance (Andy brought with him jars and vials of raw materials) was a turning point for me. Gaining that extra insight into artisan perfumery and realizing just how very  "indie" are some of those indie brands made me a devoted supporter not only of Tauer Perfumes but of the small niche segment.

It's been years since that spring day in Brooklyn. I never miss an opportunity to meet a perfumer, and not just for the photo-op. The perfumers I've gotten to know are very different from each other. Some only use natural ingredients, others work in mixed media. Several of them are only known among hardcore fragonerds  while others have beautiful boutiques and/or get lucrative deals from world famous companies. They have a few things in common: passion for perfume, an infectious enthusiasm for creating something new that will be worn and loved by real people, and very often a deep appreciation of the customers who seek them out (and  for the bloggers who give them an exposure far beyond what they would have gotten otherwise).

While we must be able to completely separate the artist from his or her work and evaluate them for their merit, as a perfume enthusiast, an avid consumer, and-- yes-- as a blogger, these meetings  do add another dimension to this very subjective and highly emotional art form. It's pretty wonderful and amazing to realize how the perfumer's personality ends up reflected in some way in the final product. Vero Kern's legendary elegance is there in everything she does just as much as it exists in this poised lady. Mandy Aftel's warmth and emotional depth brings life and love even to notes I usually eye suspiciously. The sparkling personality, modern point of view and well-justified confidence of Francis Kurkdjian are what make both his Oud and his work for Ellie Saab possible.

I'm leaving out too many of my beloved artists, but I don't want this to become a laundry list of perfumers who've visited NYC in the last seven years. I will tell you about meeting one of my biggest perfume crushes yesterday: Pierre Guillaume of Parfumerie Generale attended a party in his honor at Osswald. I admit that I was a little shy at first-- here was a celebrated French perfumer whom I've followed for years  (and have a shelf full of PG bottles to show for it); tall, glamorous, and brilliant, Guillaume is also incredibly accessible, enthusiastic and eager to share his passion with his fans. He's certain that his skill can survive and beat IFRA, committed to providing us quality perfume at a reasonable price, and is extremely attentive to public wishes, which is why he's brought back previous creations that were limited edition or briefly discontinued.

Oh, yes, he's working and finalizing something new and beautiful.

You can see photos from this event on Parfumerie Generale's Facebook page (where you can try to spot my hair in random pictures), and I posted a picture taken by The Blond in my own FB group (please join and say hello).

Have you met any of your perfume idols? Whom would you like to meet? The photo at the top is of someone I obviously never met: Jacques Guerlain.


7 comments:

  1. Hi Gaia, what a wonderful experience! It sounds like it was one to remember :)

    ReplyDelete
  2. I have never met any perfumer, yet. But would love to meet Maurice Roucel. I once even had a dream that i visited him at his office to get Musc Ravageur (I don't know the fragrance yet) and he said he would make it for me in the oil form of perfume. Haha. Anyway I adore his work even though I haven't tried all of them but he seems so nice and warm person I believe he wouldn't mind to have a little chat with me if I ever met him and I would be delighted to have such an opportunity.
    Dominic.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hi, Gaia,
    I have not taken time to meet a perfumer . But I
    would like to meet Joel Arthur Rosenthal . His perfumes have
    a special place in my heart. I love Golconda and Shadow.

    ReplyDelete
  4. I'm lucky, I've been able to meet a few perfumers and it's been a lovely experience!
    Two perfumers I would love to meet are Armand Petitjean and Bernard Chant.

    ReplyDelete
  5. I would like to meet Mandy Aftel (love her books!!) and Christopher Brosius. Also Sophia Grosjman. I would have liked to have met Mrs. Lauder and Mona di Orio.


    Currently wearing: Parfum d'Empire's Ambre Russe. Its large sillage is matched by its longevity! Never have to reapply.


    Lawrence in Ohio

    ReplyDelete
  6. Wow, I know you've often mentioned having long hair, Gaia, but I'm seeing someone with astonishingly long, beautiful cape-like hair in one of those photos and guessing that's you. Amazing! Thanks for the links, nozknoz

    ReplyDelete
  7. What a charming post - thank you Gaia, I’m so glad for our personal connection over perfume, make-up, and life!
    xo Mandy

    ReplyDelete

I love comments and appreciate the time you take to connect with me, but please do not insert links to your blog or store. Those will be deleted. The comment feature is not intended to provide an advertising venue for your blog or your commercial site.

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