The note list of Amouage Dia Woman paints a picture of a classic green floral perfume with a creamy sweet base. The actual opening of Dia is also quite aldehydic and uplifting; Dia is heart-achingly pretty, feminine, and just perfect. It's another one of those Amouage gems of the they-don't-make-them-like-that-anymore genre. The only problem? There's already a grander perfume based on this idea in the Amouage line: Gold Woman. As far as I'm concerned, the older Guy Roberts creation trumps the 2002 aquarelle by Jean-Claude Ellena on every front, from longevity to a satisfying dry-down.
But that doesn't take away from the fact that Dia is really really pretty. The smooth floral heart is wonderfully blended together and spells tasteful. There's a powdery phase that quickly turns soapy. I like it a lot, but I can think of about a dozen green floral perfumes that I find more interesting than Dia. Since I probably have enough vintage Caleche in extrait to last for my next two lives, and a good stock of Chamade (though there can never be enough Chamade), I'm saved from coveting Dia too intensely.
Notes: Fig, Cyclamen, Bergamot, Tarragon, Sage, Violet Leaves, Bush Peach Blossoms, Rose Oil, Orange Flower, Peony, Orris, White Musk, Incense, Vanilla, Heliotrope, Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Gaiac Wood.
Amouage- Dia Woman ($270, 50ml EDP) is available from Luckyscent, Osswald, MiN NY, Bergdorf Goodman, and select Neiman Marcus locations.
Photo: “Polka Dots on the Lake” 1950’s by Kenneth Heilbron