I miss Mona di Orio most when a new perfume from the archive she composed during her short life is released. It's another reminder of her absence and of the loss of her rare talent. Perfumer Mona di Orio passed away in December 2011, leaving behind admirers of her work all over the world and several unreleased formulas. Violette Fumée was one of them. Originally composed for di Orio's friend and business partner, Jeroen Oude Sogtoen, this bespoke perfume is now available as part of Les Nombres d’Or series.
Violette Fumée is a gender-bending fragrance. Smoke and flowers, delicate tendrils and petals against musky creamy wood. Pipe tobacco that has an almost fruity core, a rich texture with a modern sensibility. I wanted to describe the dry-down as a purple cloak, but that's a bit over the top, while Mona di Orio created Violette Fumée as a wearable and sophisticated personal fragrance for a man with an impeccable urbane taste.
The musky dry-down is of the slightly fruity kind, round, rich and satisfying. It still has those purple fumes surrounding it, and I feel an urge to lose myself in this mist. Despite all of that and the high concentration of the juice, Violette Fumée is not a heavy perfume. Applied moderately, it's somewhere between a skin scent and a fashion accessory that you notice but doesn't steal the show from your words.
Notes: lavender, bergamot, oakmoss, violet flowers and leaves, Turkish rose, vetiver, clary sage, opoponax, myrrh, cashmeran wood.
Mona di Orio- Violette Fumee ($330, 100ml eau de parfum intense) is available from Luckyscent and MiN NY. A press sample was provided by PR.
Photo by Kirsty Mitchell.