I'm a major iris lover yet you will notice that two of the most popular iris perfumes are not part of my very personal list. I'm criminally indifferent to Prada Infusion d'Iris on all its versions and concentrations. I'm also not crazy about Iris Poudre, Pierre Bourdon's classic creation for Frederic Malle. I appreciate these perfumes. Admire them, even. I just don't want to wear them. Instead, here are the iris perfumes that really and truly move me. Some are lost forever, but there are still enough good stuff on the market, even at the local mall.
Jacques Fath- Iris Gris. Smell it and die a little.
The Limited Edition(s)
Tableu de Parfums (Tauer) - Dark Passage
L'Artisan- Iris Pallida (2007)
Armani Prive- La Femme Bleue.
These were never meant to stay on the market, mostly because of the raw materials used in the compositions. Iris Pallida is the sheerest and most sparkling of the bunch, Armani is the sweetest, and both Tauers are thick, dark and breathtakingly stunning.
The Unjustly Discontinued
Guerlain- Iris Ganache.
At The Department Store
Dior- Dior Homme
The masculine Dior (at least in its original formula) is a perfect example of what a designer perfume can and should be. Marketed for men but adored (and worn) by women, this is a sweet and satisfying iris. Hiris, an Olivia Giacobetti creation, is the opposite: as cold and clean as a marble statue.
I think of iris as a classic Chanel note. While Chanel No.19 used to have a strong iris heart (I don't even know what to call the current version and remain polite), the real iris action has moved to Chanel's Les Exclusif line with the Green Bel Respiro and the very floral 28 La Pausa.
The Modern Classics
Serge Lutens- Iris Silver Mist
MPG- Iris Bleu Gris
Annick Goutal- Heure Exquise
More Modern Beauties
Acqua di Parma- Iris Nobile (eau de parfum)
Ramon Monegal- Impossible Iris
Parfumerie General- Cuir d'Iris
Van Cleef & Arpels- Bois d'Iris
Parfums DelRae- Mythique
Ormonde Jayne- Orris Noir
Le Labo- Iris 39
DSH Perfumes- Iridum
Albrecht Dürer, 'Iris Troiana', 1508 (detail)
Ohara Koson, Flowering Iris, 1934