Lubin's Black Jade, a nice modern floriental, gained reputation for all the wrong reasons: First was the over-the-top marketing trying to convince us that Black Jade is an authentic recreation of Marie Antoinette's signature scent. Then came the rude and hostile reaction from someone within the company, left in the comment section of Olfactoria's otherwise positive review.
I first tried Black Jade when Lubin first launched it at Henri Bendel and really really enjoyed it. I mean, what's not to like? The fragrance is a sophisticated blend of flowers and spices that belongs next to some of my favorite florientals. It's just sweet enough without losing elegance, very feminine, somewhat rosy and delightfully ambery. It's also quite modern. Florientals of yore (and by that I mean the 1980s and early 90s) had a nice plushy thickness that's missing from Black Jade. The flower notes are light-hearted but not too literal. It's more an abstract garden than a still life bouquet. I can't say I smell the promised galbanum, but there is a green thread that runs through the fragrance's opening, so I guess that's as close as we'll get.
A review of Lubin's Black Jade can be found on Another Perfume Blog. Also, Elena from Perfume Shrine reminds us about other Marie Antoinette-related fragrances.
Notes: galbanum, bergamot, cardamom, rose, jasmine, incense, cinnamon, Indian sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean, amber.
Black Jade by Lubin ($130, 50ml) is available from MiN NY, Henri Bendel, Aedes and Luckyscent.
Image: Paper Wigs by Nikki Salk and Amy Flurry via Trendlend.