Thursday, November 04, 2010

Caron Alpona



A sharp and edgy citrus chypre, Alpona, a 1939 Caron urn fragrance had no chance in today's IFRA-regulated world and was discontinued a few years ago. Until the first time I smelled Alpona my reference perfume in this category was O de Lancome, which I've always found screechy and unrefined until late into its dry-down when oakmoss takes over. But this is a Caron, so you know you will not find Lemon Pledge here.

The pedigree of Alpona is evident from the very first notes, where the characteristic Caron rose is woven into the citrus opening. It's elegant and very perfumy, for better and for worse; definitely not what young Sephora shoppers would recognize as a fresh citrus fragrance. And that's a very good thing. Wearing Alpona is instantly transforming- clothes are more elegant, there's no reality TV and you're never stuck in traffic on the Turnpike (actually, the NJ Turnpike doesn't exist in Caron's universe).

Looking at the list of notes (via the Perfumed Court): lemon, grapefruit, bergamot, rose, orange, jasmine, orchid, thyme, patchouli, myrrh, cedar, sandalwood, musk and oakmoss, this is full of what the bureaucrats consider skin allergen and perfume lovers see and smell as beauty. The combination of rose and oakmoss adds a lot of complexity to a blend that could have been nothing more than L'Eau d'Issey. Instead, Alpona dries down into a soft mossy musk, a bit furry and animalic (my husband insists he smells honey on my skin) and just a little leathery- think a kinder, gentler vintage Cabochard.  IFRA really owes us for making Caron discontinue this gem.

Both images appeared originally at Harper's Bazaar. The first is the 1939 ad for Alpona prior to its debut  in the French Pavillion at the NY World Fair (vintageadbrowser.com). The second is a fashion photograph by Louise Dahl-Wolfe featuring model Mary Jane Russel, 1952 (myvintagevogue.com).

6 comments:

  1. I think the key to understanding the citrus in this, if you've never smelt it, is to abandon all thoughts of fresh citrus and to think of marmalade. It's like eating marmalade while dressed in fur. I was heartbroken when it was discontinued.

    ReplyDelete
  2. I agree with the marmalade theory...fascinating and beautiful perfume. I feel privileged to have had the chance to smell it.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Oh this sounds lovely! It's such a shame. Damn the busybodies.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Sounds special!
    I wish I could smell this,
    longing and loving vtg. discontinued scents sucks.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Hi all
    I've never tried this (tried O' de Lancome, not to my liking) but your review has piqued my interest.
    Another lovely citrus/chypre I adore is Eau de Patou-it has petigrain in the top notes, with a lovely amber/oakmoss in the drydown. I used to wear it often in H.S., being from hot/humid Florida, it wore beautifully in the heat without being overpowering.

    ReplyDelete
  6. A dear friend just gave me a small bottle of Apalona (from way back when) for my wife.....I owe him!!!!! Thank you for so eloquently describing its touch.

    CSE

    ReplyDelete

I love comments and appreciate the time you take to connect with me, but please do not insert links to your blog or store. Those will be deleted. The comment feature is not intended to provide an advertising venue for your blog or your commercial site.

Like