Diorling is a real challenge for my resolve to enjoy my perfume collection with no restraints or regrets and wear everything, no matter how rare a certain perfume may be. While I have enough vintage Miss Dior in several formulations and concentrations to drown an IFRA bureaucrat and an LVMH executive together, I have little left of Diorling and it saddens me.
Speaking of Miss Dior (the original), it is often labeled the same way as Diorling, as a leather chypre. It's true, I guess, but don't expect them to smell anything alike. Miss Dior is greener, cooler, more floral and aloof. The leather is shiny, the suit is crisp and every hair is in its place. Diorling, released in 1963, sixteen years after Miss Dior, is quite a bit more boho-chic. The leather note is actually a soft warm suede and it's less prim and more intimate. There's also an unmistakable patchouli dry-down; this is a 1960s perfume, after all.
I smell neroli somewhere around the aldehydic opening and probably whiff of jasmine, though I suspect my very old juice has lost a bit of spark there. I don't mind. It's like opening an old trunk in the attic and going through old forgotten treasures. Some have nothing but sentimental value, but others are couture accessories from bygone days. What's left of my Diorling is the latter and I intend to have every last spritz count.
Top image is the original Rene Gruau illustration later used in the Diorling ad campaign. Second image is a 1964 ad, also by Gruau.