I'm thinking about other iris perfumes I love. From the cold earth and carrots of Iris Silver Mist to the dry leather of MPG's Iris Bleu Gris, each one is beautiful and captivating, but they aren't very sensual, at least not in a human skin way. That's what makes Mythique, the 2009 Yann Vasnier creation for Parfums Delrae, so special.
Mythique starts out a bit juicy and fruity, like some iris-violet perfumes. But the brightness of scent and color goes away quickly and lets in a sheer floral accord. The perfume lowers its tone considerably at this point. It's a little abstract, or maybe would be more accurate to say impressionistic, until the iris itself takes hold of the composition. Then you can see it clearly, a dry, almost papery iris. It's delicate but holds its own with little adornment and absolutely no hint of powder.
The drydown is even more quiet and elusive. There's no sillage left after a couple of hours. The first few times I tested Mythique when it first came out I gave up on it, thinking it was gone. But it's actually still there if you pay close attention. I had the Blond sniff my skin and he commented that it was hard to tell where the perfume stops and my skin starts. Me, I just plant my nose in my cleavage (hey, I never claimed to be very graceful) inhale and smile.
Mythique ($135, 50 ml) is available from Aedes, Luckyscent and Barneys, though the latter seems to be in store only.
Art: Wild Iris by Susan Faye