Friday, September 25, 2009

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier- Iris Bleu Gris

If I could list only one reason why MPG, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, should continue making perfume, it would be Iris Bleu Gris.

Iris Bleu Gris is part of the masculine line, but I've always liked it better than its feminine sibling, Fleur d'Iris, because it's far more interesting and original. While Fleur d'Iris is cute, sweet and smells like someone's idea of what a feminine iris should be, Iris Bleu Gris is the real thing- complex, dark and dry. Instead of a powdery feeling, it is dusty and leathery, and dries down into an almost sweet musk. It doesn't have the famous earthy carrot note of Iris Silver Mist (Lutens) or the woody backbone of Infusion d'Iris (Prada). Instead there's something mossy and maybe some hay in the background.

The opening is almost bitter, which I love. It makes you pay attention and stand up straight. It becomes a bit less formal and stiff afterwards, without losing the edge. I don't think I could wear it with a pink cashmere sweater, but a belted trench coat and an Hermes scarf are a perfect match.

There's a lot of uncertainty about the future of Maître Parfumeur et Gantier. I can't find much definite information, but it looks like their website hasn't been updated in ages, and all their listed NYC retailers are no longer getting new stock.The entire Maître Parfumeur et Gantier line is now back in stock at Henri Bendel and Luckyscent.

Art: Gray Iris by Christopher Redwine

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