Friday, July 30, 2010

Coty La Rose Jacqueminot- Vintage Perfume




The danger in getting into vintage perfumes is that sooner or later one of them will break your heart. The one that did it to me is La Rose Jacqueminot by Coty. It was one of Francois Coty's first creations, originally released in 1905 (according to Roja Dove. Other sources point to 1906). My bottle is the 1980s reissue of the eau de perfume, so it's not that I'm even yearning for something all that old and unattainable, but knowing that this beauty is gone and would probably not be seen again is painful.

I'm not even a rose person, but this is a very dark and thick rose. I don't know if it ever had lighter top notes that my bottle has lost or if it always been about red wine and roses right from the start. It's a date night perfume, low lights, silk and velvet, black eyeliner and hushed tones. There's quite a bit of spice in its heart which makes me think of faraway places.  I smell cardamom, nutmeg and a dirty wood base, a touch of oud, maybe, sandalwood and tobacco. It's rich, romantic, completely devoid of sunshine and so beautiful it makes me dress up to deserve it. La Rose Jacqueminot makes you realize just how much we've lost when Coty turned into a dreck for the masses company it is today, and that's a big part of the heartbreak involved.

Coty's La Rose Jacqueminot was discontinued long ago. Bottles of the later reissue pop up online here and there (there's one right now on eBay, but it's the EDT, so I don't know how it compares to the one I have).

Have you had your heart broken by a vintage perfume? Let's commiserate.

Images:
1939 fashion photo myvintagevogue.com
La Rose Jacqueminot ad from allposters.com
Coty ad from 1943 by Carl Erickson paperpursuits.com

9 comments:

  1. Well, this sounds beautiful! I hope someday I come across a bottle of this.

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  2. Oh, yes. Vintage Bandit. I got hold of some very vintage extrait in excellent condition, and although the present version is nice, it isn't the vintage extrait by any stretch of the imagination.
    I'm afraid to try vintage Rochas Femme, but I will end up doing it sooner or later, and it will certainly break my heart. I love the current version, hopefully I will still do that even after trying the old.

    La Rose Jacqueminot sounds fantastic. I'll have to keep an eye out for it.

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  3. I just tried La Rose Jacqueminot for the first time. I was expecting a sweet rose-violet but it is not that at all. It's dark, as you say, and complex. I think this is EDT, a sample I bought from a decant seller.

    I'd say that all of the vintage perfumes cause me to feel dismay -- not exactly heartbreak, but close -- when I try so many of the new ones. The mainstream scents especially smell bizarrely synthetic and unpleasant to me now. It saddens me to think that this is what "perfume" is to so many younger women, part of the coarsening and dumbing-down of, well, practically everything.

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  4. I recently got a bottle of La Rose EDP (the newer version as well) and was stunned stupid at how beautiful it is. And now I'm doing what I often do with something beautiful & unattainable... I hardly use it. I know that's crazy, but I'm afraid I'll run out & won't be able to smell it again. Of course I also know I'm dealing with time damaging it or evaporation. I'm facing that now with one of my rare loves, Oh La La by CIRO. I got a full sealed bottle that stays in a cabinet but when I looked the other day evaporation had taken about half. This is the only one I have that's evaporated so drastically. Guess I'll have to get on the ball & go ahead & use it up before it's gone for good. Oh well, it's said nothing good lasts forever. :-(
    -MELISCENTS-

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  5. I've been curious about this one. All the vintage Coty's I've come across have been great. I agree with Olfacta. After going vintage, the modern ones smell like cheap messes of chemicals that fall apart in about 25 minutes. The backbone is not deep or real enough perhaps. I have Voulez Vous by Dorsay. A deep deep green chypre with leather notes. It smells electrifying real. Heartbreak ahead.
    Cheryl

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  6. This is why I haven't gotten into vintage perfumes - I'm afraid I will get my heart broken. Since mainstream fragrances are so boring, I've gotten into the niche scents, which I love. I am certain that vintage will just be more to make me sad about what modern fragrance is.

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  7. I don't seek out vintage because it is an exercise in heartbreak.

    I do remember however the wonders of my mothers dressing table: vintage Miss Dior (day wear), Joy (evening), Bandit and Antilope (date night with dad). And the bottle of Eau Sauvage she filched from me one summer because it was "cooling"

    The ones available today are nice simulacrums of what was available before, as I remember them.

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  8. Yes, I have. And they are Coty fragrances.


    I recently smelled new Emeraude, and it does not smell much like the Emeraude my favorite Aunt wore in the 1960s. It smelled pale, and too weak to walk. I always thought that if a person crushed emeralds, they would smell almost like Emeraude.


    Likewise, L'Origan. My Ma traded off L'Origan with Nina Ricci's L'Air du Temps.


    Lawrence in Ohio

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  9. Let's look at the positive side, with patience you'll find another bottle. And in the meanwhile be introduced to another beauty , new to your nose. what a wonderful adventure!

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