Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Jean Patou 1000


I doubt a perfume can get more French than 1000 by Jean Patou. A decidedly floral chypre that isn't afraid to smell perfumy and dress up. While this Patou is actually younger than me, it could have easily been released a decade or two earlier with some other iconic Patou scents.

It opens with greens and aldehydes that set the tone and expectations. When you smell aldehydes it often brings an imagery of tailored outfits and perfect hair. Some find them dated, but eventually we learn to appreciate their sunny quality and the way they uplift heavy floral notes and take them beyond a cottage garden. In the case of 1000, the aldehyde keep the green and almost camphor-like opening from becoming too bitter or medicinal. Instead, it's elegant and sophisticated, making the transition into the floral heart a very interesting one.

I smell roses and a gorgeous more leathery than fruity osmanthus (yes, I'm on a serious osmanthus kick lately). The best part, though, is the subtly animalic base. It's sexy this confident, worldly way. 1000 is not about showing skin or taking cues from the Kardashians, the woman wearing it will never give paparazzi the money shot. Instead, she gives them a half smile, readjusts the black sunglasses and disappears from their sight.

I want to be that woman.

1000 by Jean Patou ($190, 2.5oz EDP or $275, 0.5oz extrait de parfum) is available in very limited distribution. Here in the states it can be found at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, including online. I have older bottles of the parfum and the EDT, and I'm not sure if and how they've changed the formula in the last decade.

Photo of Gitta Schilling in a Jean Patou dress by F.C. Gundlach, 1962 from myvintagevogue.com

6 comments:

  1. I want to be that woman too.. Or be BFFs with borrowing rights. I love 1000 and am frankly not thrilled at smelling the new formulations.

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  2. I believe that this is Angelica Huston's HG; if so, it's a perfect one for her. "Animalic" made me prick up my ears - a trip to NM might be in order!

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  3. I adore 1000. It is my "dress up" perfume of choice. I buy it online. Thanks for the post!

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  4. I have been thinking about getting a bottle of 1000 for awhile....I have always loved it. To my nose it is such a creamy, elegant and smooth chypre. Somehow manages to be subtle and drop dead sexy at the same time...must be the lack of skin and those dark glasses! Perfect description. Thinking I might have to try the parfum.....lovely....you smell delish.

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  5. I think the formulation changed.
    I discovered 1000 with a current EDT testeur. Nice, but not enchanting, not enough floral, many tiny "metallic" feelings that stop me for using it on a daily basis.

    Last months, I purchased a old used bottle of 1000, at a really bargain price... and it's beautiful. I mean, at last there is something ravishing in the tune.
    First the peach jasmine overture do it really right, that smells quality, and the mossy delectable undertone are clearly there. And there is a buttery softness, like iris. And this smell of chypre muted luxury and girly classiness.

    In comparison, the actual reminds me "passage d'enfer" (l'artisan parfumeur) in its metallic feature : maybe a play on geraniol. Actual 1000 is for me sparkling but confused, and smell a bit of eucalyptus (who knows?!!).
    Luca Turin said it would make a good dry floral masculine, but didn't say the formula changed.

    I want to catch another bottle of the old 1000.
    The actual 1000 is good, but I don't see me wearing it often, like "passage d'enfer" I fear it could slightly itch my throat while breathing.

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  6. "1000" ? And smells like a 1,000,000! Seriously feminine, well dressed and simply
    larger than life. No one ever forgets this scent it is so luxuriously rich. I wear it only in the
    winter months - it just always felt to me to be a bit much for the summer.
    If I had to describe my dear beautiful Mother with one word it would be "1000". She is the
    the person who introduced me to the scent.

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