A few months after I reviewed Lune by Jean-Marc Sinan a cranky reader informed me that I have no idea what I'm talking about, since Lune smells almost identical to the original 1981 Sinan. I probably would have fretted over the comment had I not already found a vintage mini bottle of Sinan de Sinan, complete with the moon stopper and knew that the two are, indeed, quite different.
Both Lune and Sinan are green chypres with floral leanings. Sinan de Dinan opens up with spice and galbanum. The bergamot note in my vintage juice has gone funky and I wouldn't call the aldehydes minty-fresh, either, but the greenery is in good shape and has both softness and crispness that reveal good breeding. I love the spiciness of coriander (and perhaps also nutmeg): there's a certain warmth to the top notes of Sinan, making it plush and exotic.
The heart and base of Sinan are what make this such a lovely and elegant chypre. It reminds of a softer and kinder Eau de Soir. It's a little powdery (more evident on really warm skin) and the combination of iris-rose-carnation-muguet gives that very French impression, ladylike and perfectly groomed. Don't mistake what I call "ladylike" as too femme for guys. Like many green chypres, men who like Chanel No. 19 are likely to enjoy Sinan very much. The powdery iris and co. make way to a classic oakmoss-vetiver dry-down that lasts nicely. My disgruntled reader might not agree, but I think the old Sinan smells more balanced and expensive than its younger sibling. The latter tries too hard and too loudly to compensate for its cheaper outfit.
Read more about Sinan on Yesterday's Perfume.
Notes: coriander, bergamot, brazilian rosewood, aldehydes, green notes, carnation, iris, jasmine, geranium, ylang-ylang, rose, lily-of-the-valley, vetiver, musk, patchouli, oak moss, amber and incense.