Lancaster Eau de Concentree by Lancaster is another one of those perfumes I thought were around forever but are actually from the late eighties. 1987, to be exact. It's an elegant chypre with all the trimmings: a rich heart and a good dose of animalics. There's a feeling of Luxury from the elaborate top notes to the dense and sweet dry-down, and perhaps that's why I think of Lancaster Eau de Concentree as related to older 1960s and 70s. The older crisp and green chypres with their slight bitterness and aromatic outdoorsy vibe clearly inspired whoever composed this fragrance for Lancaster (a brand known for excellent skincare).
The transition from the green opening to the deep and sweet dry-down that's wonderfully laced with civet happens in a heartbeat. One minute you're reveling in oakmoss, herbs and tagetes, and the next you're hiding in the old wardrobe full of floor length fur coats that will lead you to Narnia (or to the land of vintage perfumes). The dry-down of Lancaster Eau de Concentree is very elegant and tailored, yet it's approachable, warm and slightly sweet, at least on my skin. It lasts for long hours and clings to scarves and sweaters making them feel just a little more luxurious than they were before.
Lancaster's perfume license belongs to Coty Prestige. As far as I know, Lancaster Eau de Concentree has been discontinued for a while now, and the company's newer fragrances are only available in Europe. Yet, bottles of Lancaster Eau de Concentree can be found online here and there. I found mine among a lot of old Avon bottles so you never know.
Version 1 (from Atlas Olfactif): bergamot, lemon, rosewood, green note, peach, mandarin, rose, muguet, jasmine, thyme, vanilla, tonka, sandalwood, musk, amber, cedar, patchouli.
Version 2 (via Fragrantica): orange blossom, neroli, bergamot, lavender, tagetes, basil, coriander and thyme, jasmine, tuberose, mimosa, geranium, amber, oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, galbanum, incense, vanilla and civet.
Photo: model Michaela Bercu by Sheila Metzner, Vogue, 1987.