It occurred to me the other day that Une Rose Vermeille by Tauer perfumes is technically a fruity floral. Funny, right? Of course, this is not exactly an "Andy Tauer does Sephora" moment, but one cannot deny that Une Rose Vermeille is about sweet berries and rose, it's definitely a gourmand and it has quite a bit of vanilla in the dry-down. It's all about being pretty, loving and adorable.
Rose is not a new Tauer theme. Andy's very first perfume, the sexy Le Maroc Pour Elle, is probably my favorite rose and jasmine blend. Then there's Incense Rose (mandarin orange, rose, incense over the Tauerade base) and Une Rose Chypree, which just might top the list of my favorite perfumes of the decade. So, yes, there was no lack of expectations from Une Rose Vermeille. And it did not disappoint.
Une Rose Vermeille doesn't smell like a typical Tauer. It completely lacks the familiar cistus labdanum I can usually spot as soon as I take off the bottle's cap. If Une Rose Chypree was romantic in a nostalgic, almost melancholic way, Vermeille is idyllic and optimistic. It brings summer love to a December night and celebrates June during its season. The juicy fruits appear from the start- beautiful pulpy citrus, full and lush. It goes well with the berries and roses that follow and creates this star-burst of color and taste. I imagine sitting on my deck on a late summer morning having a wonderful breakfast of fresh pastries with homemade jams- raspberry and rose petals (why can't I find it anywhere around here?), a pitcher of just-squeezed orange juice and a beautiful vase of roses are on the table. I'm also a pretty princess in this little fantasy, but that might be a perfume overdose. This stuff is potent and long lasting.
But that's not all. The parts that make Une Rose Vermeille so stunning are the violets and marzipan that join the jammy rose when it's in full bloom. Almond (or heliotrope), vanilla and violets say to me "Guerlain", but this is not L'Heure Bleue. A modern homage, maybe, but only vaguely inspired by the classic. Andy Tauer took all these themes and created something that to me is the ultimate in its genre. URV is so beautiful and satisfying it would take me a long time not to look at other rose-gourmands as completely redundant.
I spent a couple of hours searching for the right artwork for this review but found all those interpretations of red roses overworked and lacking. Instead, I went with the real thing by one of my favorite photographers, Declan McCullagh. Andy and him got it right in a similar way.
Une Rose Vermeille ($130, 30ml) is available from Luckyscent and tauerperfumes.com. The sample for this review was sent by the perfumer.
Photo: Red Rose Closeup by Declan McCullagh