Tuesday, July 10, 2012

CASAMORATI 1888 by Xerjoff: Dama Bianca


Dama Bianca from Xerjoff spin-off line CASAMORATI 1888 is a Perfume with a capital P. The name Dama Bianca, a white lady, might make you think either of ghostly apparitions or of a romantic bride, but this couldn't be further from the idea behind this Xerjoff/Casamorati fragrance. There's nothing dainty, ethereal or demure about this white dame. In fact, this is quite a bombshell of a perfume.

The opening of Dama Bianca is tame enough: sweet citrus and a hint of the cuddly musk that is to come. It's when the flowers in the height of their bloom that decorate a powdery boudoir start emerging that you get the feeling there's not one ounce of innocence in this lady. The room is slightly cluttered with art nouveau knickknacks, embroidered shawls and the big vases with the aforementioned  huge bouquets. It can be a bit suffocating, actually, but this is just me and my muguet issues. The jasmine is actually pretty dominant with more than a little carnal skank and naughty nighttime sweetness.

Somewhere between the heart and the base notes the husband claims Dama Bianca turns into a honeyed tobacco on my skin. He's probably wrong (sorry, Love), but I know where he's coming from.  Dama Bianca develops richly and sweetly on my skin, with a lot more fruit than the official notes reveal. This abstract pulpy thing kills any hint of the more delicate flowers that might exist within, and leads the way to the creamy vanilla sandalwood base.

Casamorati Dama Bianca has some killer longevity (easily 24 hours) and it also survives a shower. About 10-12 hours into wearing it, the fragrance becomes even more delicious and wonderful: at that point it's all vanilla and light animalic notes. It smells luxurious and expensive; an irresistible combination for a really hot date.

Notes: Lime, Chinese Kumquats, Florentin Orris, Egyptian Jasmine, Lilly of the Valley, Voilet, Lilac, Indonesian Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Zanaibar Vanilla Beans, Ambrette White Musk, Burnt Malt

Dama Bianca by Xerjoff / CASAMORATI 1888  ($293, 100 ml EDP) will be available soon exclusively from MiN NY (you can call them about samples and reserving a bottle 212 206 6366). If you're in Europe, your retailer is essenza-nobile.de. The sample for this review was supplied by MiN.

Art: Louis Icart, Paresse, 1925

2 comments:

  1. By the title and description of the perfume I would guess the name refers to the Dama Bianca, aka Giulia Occhini, who caused such a stir in the Italian public opinion in her time...
    In her time indeed: there would be no scandal today, but she was really crucified be the media (and even the Pope!!!), just some decades ago...

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  2. When i read the name Dama Bianca I instantly thought about Bianca Castafiore from Tintin, and she is anything but a romantic bride or a ghostly apparitions :) But your description of the perfume fits her in some ways.

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