Opus III from Amouage Library collection is a wonderful big floriental, of the kind that makes my heart race because it's just so perfect. I can't help it- as someone who came of age in the 1980s I'm drawn to the larger-than-life sillage of these perfumes (and also shoes, jewelry and hair). I can pretend to have refined tastes all I want. In the end of the day I'm Alexis Carrington.
As is often the case with this genre, Amouage Opus III is not centered around one defining note, but has more of a rounded character. Still, the elements I smell most clearly, at least on my skin, are broom, assorted spices, a very rich and honeyed mimosa and violet over a somewhat smoky ambery vanilla base. Naturally, this thing has my name all over it.
The violet-oriental base combination brings to mind the classic Guerlain structure. Indeed, there's a powdery vibe somewhere in Opus 3 that makes me think of helitrope. I'm not saying that this is the Amouage answer to L'Heure Bleue, but I'd go out on a limb and say that LHB fans (and old school Guerlainophiles in general) have a good chance of enjoying this jewel of the Library Collection.
The violet note in Opus 3 is one of the longest lasting ones I've encountered since Armani Cuir Améthyste. The violet is as tenacious as the fragrance itself, and that can easily keep going after 24 hours if allowed. Opus III smells like a million dollars, feels plush and creamy and if you have the right skin for some serious wood-vanilla action it's also as sexy as can be. In an almost tasteful way. I can't get enough of this thing.
Notes (via Luckyscent): Mimosa, broom, clove, nutmeg, thyme, violet, jasmine, ylang-ylang, orange blossom, ambrette, musk, papyrus, cedar, sandalwood, guaiac wood, benzoin resin, vanilla.
Amouage Opus III - Library Collection ($325, 100ml EDP) is available from Luckyscent, MiN New York and other authorized Amouage retailers, such as Jacqueline Parfumerie in San Francisco that provided my sample.
Photo of Jane Russel in Hot Blood, 1956, from The Nifty Fifties website.