Monday, April 04, 2011

L'Artisan Parfumeur- Tubéreuse


Another week, another tuberose.

Or maybe not, since Tubereuse by L'Artisan Parfumeur seems to have been phased out (that's a nice way to say "discontinued")- it's no longer on L'Artisan's website or on those of the usual suspects among the authorized US retailers- Aedes, Luckyscent, Beauty Habit and Barneys.

Which is really a shame, because this little odd tropical bird is very pretty and satisfying, and to me holds more interest than the newer and extremely over-hyped Nuit de Tubéreuse. The original Tubéreuse opens up green and buttery like quite a few perfumes centered around a tuberose note. The thing I enjoy about it is the way the butter becomes more creamy or milky as the scent develops on skin thanks to a sweet coconut milk note. It's not quite a Thai pudding but at times it gets close. I was very surprised to discover Tubéreuse was a Jean-Claude Ellena creation- it's so lush and heady. I guess this was before Mr. Ellena dedicated himself to recreating the scent of mineral water.

Once Tubéreuse gets to its creamy stage it just hangs there unchanged for a few (not enough) hours. It pulsates more on a hot day, but even on a cool spring night it has the effect of a tropical fantasy. The perfume becomes more simple overtime and on a non-tuberose friendly skin would probably be too flat. A couple of years ago my scent twin said that he and I tend to radiate tuberose. It's true- there's something about the alchemy of this flower that tends to work for me more often than not, and this L'Artisan is no exception. It's lush, sweet and inviting, a happy island vacation wearing sheer scarves and flowers and not thinking too much.

As mentioned above, Tubéreuse is not available currently from any of the official L'Artisan distribution channels, but some online sources still carry it.

Photo of model Yasmeen Ghauri (early 90s) from Vogue UK.

4 comments:

  1. I adore tuberose and it seems to agree with my skin. I finally gave Nuit de Tubereuse a proper trial the other day and I enjoyed the fragrance, but didn't find much tuberose in it.

    For another lovely example of Ellena's more maximalist style, I recommend VC&A's First, a gorgeous, gorgeous floral bouquet.

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  2. So... I guess I must have a non-tuberose friendly skin as all I can smell after a few hours is a sickening creamy peach scent.

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  3. I love tuberose, and usually find that it settles down and gets cozy on my skin, without rising up and beheading passersby. On me, for example, Carnal Flower is sparkly and radiant but not a sillage monster. Vamp a NY is a spicy tropical dream, and Eclair di Tubereuse is a beautiful candied tuberose. I spent my teen years in the original Chloe, too.

    Over the last couple of years, I have done some in-depth testing of tuberose-centric fragrances and soliflores, and I'd put the L'Artisan in the bottom third in terms of smelling interesting. It is oily and smells somewhat synthetic, not all that pleasant.

    Nuit de Tubereuse isn't very tuberose-y; it's nice but just not my thing.

    Isn't Yasmeen beautiful?

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  4. I consider this a pretty wearable Tuberose, most give me a serious migraine(Carnal Flower)-this works for when I want a lovely white floral scent that's not over bearing.

    I've always had Yasmin brow envy-brows are my one area I neglect....

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