Just when I thought I've seen and smelled every interpretation of tuberose in perfume, comes Mona di Orio with a second golden triangle of scents (the first one included the wonderful Cuir, Ambre and Musc) and presents Tubéreuse (the other two are Vanille and Vetyver. Reviews coming soon). Under this not-so-original title lives a truly beautiful and unique scent that might make all Fracas-phobic reconsider their stance on this heady white flower.
Mona di Orio's Tubéreuse is not heady, narcotic or any of the adjectives that usually accompany tuberose perfumes. It doesn't hit you on the head with tropical sensuality and Maria Callas mannerism. Instead, Tubéreuse is this unusual mix of casual and rich notes. There's green and sweetness, flowers and amber, and they all come together beautifully on skin once the fireworks of pink pepper and bergamot (and whatever else was used to create the sparkling opening) fade.
Tuberose perfumes often tend to be buttery, but Mona di Orio made her variation more nutty than creamy. The use of coconut milk in Tubéreuse is more of backdrop and enhancement to the sweet dry-down than to the leafy greens. I especially adore the base, because it's sweet, musky and smells incredible for hours without ever crossing the lines and going all super diva and huge cleavage. Maybe that's the biggest surprise. Mona di Orio has a penchant for animalic perfumes and I love her for that. Given tubersoe's own leaning towards the carnal and scary (Histoires de Parfums Tubéreuse 3 and JAR Ferme tes Yeux are my favorite examples), one might have expected a Bacchanalia of civet. Instead, we get this sophisticated and understated oriental, and it is just as satisfying.
Notes (from Luckyscent): pink pepper, bergamot from Calabria, green leaves, Indian tuberose absolute, benzoin, heliotrope, amber, coconut milk, musk.
Mona di Orio Tubéreuse ($220, 100ml EDP) and the other Les Nombres d'Or perfumes can be found at Luckyscent. The sample for this review was sent for my consideration by the store.
Photo of a model wearing a lace Balenciaga hat from The Nifty Fifties on Tumblr.